Episodes, series five, episode one review

The perfect encapsulation of cruel yet effective comedy.

Welcome back LA-set sitcom Episodes for a third series, once again mixing satire and soap opera to effervescent effect. In fact, Episodes is so good that it is even helping me overcome my - admittedly irrational - aversion to Tamsin Greig.

I do have two small quibbles. First is the scarcity of my favourite character, the heroically vulgar TV producer Merc (John Pankow), who lost his job, wife and mistress at the end of series two. However, I am confident Merc will soon make a triumphant return, like some foul-mouthed phoenix, before this run finishes.

The second quibble, as a concerned licence payer, is the enormous electricity bill the BBC must be running up trying to light the Brit-based interior scenes to look like sunny California.

The satire isn't always subtle, but there's still much to enjoy in this British-led LA-based sitcom. It's the Americans who provide most of the laughs. Tonight, network head Merc Lapidus's (John Pankow) father dies, prompting a flurry of competitive condolence gifts ("a turkey the size of a Prius") that leave Brits Beverly (Tamsin Greig) and Sean (Stephen Mangan) utterly bewildered. Matt (Matt LeBlanc), meanwhile, is nervous about attending the funeral. He's having an affair with Merc's blind wife ("it's good, you don't have to suck in your gut").

The first series ended with a fight involving Matt LeBlanc's self-titled cologne, a lampshade and the immortal line "He hit me with a cactus!" - tonight Episodes is back. Stephen Mangan and Tamsin Greig's marriage is on the rocks after the latter's indiscretions and John Pankow's morose TV exec Merc is still stealing scenes, but as ever it's Matt LeBlanc's odorously smug, well-endowed pastiche of himself that makes it. One of the best BBC comedies in ages.

Midway through the first episode of Episodes, Tamsin Greig gawped in awe at the swish-pad-with-pool that Hollywood had made available to her and Stephen Mangan and said: "Crikey, our show's not this good!" Pretty brave of this comedy's writers to include that line, I reckon, because it's bound to be pounced on by anyone who finds Episodes a bit too cute, clever-clever and in-jokey. Like me.

See what I did there? Stepped out of the role of TV critic then stepped back in. Episodes steps out of the traditional comedy format then steps back in. I also presupposed you're interested in TV criticism in itself. Episodes presupposes you're interested in TV production in itself. A lot of shows do this now: they're shows about shows. Look at us, aren't we wonderful! Or they're full of actors playing themselves. Look at us, aren't we post-modern! There's been Studio 60 On The Sunset Strip and Moving Wallpaper and Grandma's House, but so far only one instant classic of small-screen self-referencing: The Trip.

Greig and Mangan play an award-winning English comedy-writing couple lured to Tinseltown by a top exec who showers them with praise ("I love your show! I wanna have sex with your show!") and loganberries. Greig's character's grandmother used to make jam with them; the exec (John Pankow) is touched by this story, especially since the only noteworthy thing about his grandmother is that "she lives in Morristown, New Jersey, and hates black people".

I laughed at this but, in the opening half-hour, not much else. Of course the exec hadn't actually seen Greig and Mangan's show (he loved its success, that's all). Of course he was going to dump its English star and replace him with an American (Matt LeBlanc, playing the as-yet-unseen Matt LeBlanc). And of course the dream home where our writers are installed has Greek columns made of papier-mache, having previously been the location for a reality show (How on earth could I have foreseen that? Okay, I didn't). I'll stick with Episodes, in the hope that the real fun will begin when LeBlanc looks in the mirror and, thinking about his post-Friends career, asks: "How you doin'?" But a key theme bothers me: does the average viewer really care if vulgar Americans make a mess of the odd British show? And anyway, doesn't the US make the best TV in the world these days?

Episodes, which got uproarious laughter in cut-down form at the Television Critics Association press tour in July, does not disappoint an ounce as it rolls through a seven-episode season. It also signals a savvy return to television for LeBlanc, who manages to be the butt of the joke one moment then hilariously likable the next. It takes confidence to play yourself but not really yourself and to know that moving past Joey and Friends means a simultaneous embracing/mocking of the legacy.

The premise of Episodes is simple (and all too real). Over-the-top, hug-happy, faux-sincere network president Merc Lapidus (John Pankow) meets the happily married writing team of Sean and Beverly Lincoln (Stephen Mangan and Tamsin Greig) right as they've snared a slew of BAFTA Awards for their (fictional) hit series, Lyman's Boys.

Lapidus loves the series and wants it on his network. He tries to woo the duo to the States, saying the show's perfect as is and would require a mere 20 minutes of their magic to make it Americanized. They can spend the rest of their time counting the money and screwing in the pool.

So they make the leap. And, not surprisingly, it's a long drop. Lapidus wants the British star of the series that has run for four seasons to audition - despite Sean and Beverly having told him he had the job.

Turns out, Lapidus doesn't watch much TV. "There's a chance that Merc might not have actually seen your show," says Carol (Kathleen Rose Perkins), second-in-command to Lapidus. "What?!" Sean and Beverly say in tandem. "I'm not saying he hasn't seen it," Carol says. "Has he seen it?" Beverly asks. "No," Carol says, shaking her head sadly.

And so it goes. Episodes was created by David Crane and Jeffrey Klarik, the writing duo that knows more than a little something about how the industry works. (Crane wrote for Friends, and Klarik wrote for Mad About You; both wrote for The Class.) There's so much delicious fun-house-mirror truth here. When the British thespian (played with gravitas by Richard Griffiths) does the audition, Lapidus and everybody else howls with laughter. They ask him to step outside for a moment, and Lapidus says, "Is it me or does anyone else think he comes off a bit too English?" They then make him read it again with an American accent. Nobody laughs.

Episodes might be inside baseball to some, but viewers are savvy enough about real-life industry types to get the joke. (God help them if they really were to see how shows evolve.) One of the sly bits in the series is Myra (Daisy Haggard), the head of comedy development, who has the same sour smile and confused look at all times - a visual joke that never fails.

Mangan and Greig are exceptionally good as the fish-out-of-water Brits, horrified that their show is getting rejiggered. Mangan's Sean is seduced by Hollywood, and Greig's Beverly is repulsed and appalled at the cluelessness. When the network hires LeBlanc to play the lead, Episodes takes off to all kinds of unexpected places - with LeBlanc getting a glorious showcase - and the show avoids any potential trouble spots.

In fairness, not every network would take a British series called Lyman's Boys, about a headmaster at an elite boys boarding school, and change it to Pucks! about a hockey coach at said school. But then again, one or two would. And that's all the truth Episodes needs to tap into.